A corner shower fits into the corner of a bathroom, using two existing walls and a glass enclosure on the open sides. Compact (typically 36×36 to 42×42 inches), good for small bathrooms or as secondary showers. The build is similar to a standard alcove shower but with two glass panels and corner-specific waterproofing demands.
This guide covers a typical 36×36 corner shower with sliding or swing glass doors.
Before you start
Three things to settle:
1. Pre-fab pan vs custom build. Pre-fabricated corner shower pan (acrylic, fibreglass): drops in, drain pre-installed, no waterproofing needed. Faster build. Custom (mortar + waterproofing): more flexibility for size and design, more time and skill required. For DIY, pre-fab is far more forgiving.
2. Sliding vs swing door. Sliding glass: doesn't swing into the bathroom — better for tight bathrooms. Swing: more elegant, requires clearance to open. 36×36 with sliding is most common compact configuration.
3. Two-wall corner waterproofing. Corner showers have two existing walls. Both walls need cement board + waterproofing membrane. Inside corner where the two walls meet is a critical seal point — reinforce with corner mesh.
What you'll need
Tools
- Drill with bits and driver
- Tape measure
- Level (4-foot)
- Trowel (notched)
- Mixing paddle
- Utility knife
Materials
- Pre-fabricated corner shower pan (acrylic or fibreglass) OR cement-board pan
- Cement board (1/2 inch)
- Cement board screws
- Schluter Kerdi membrane or RedGard liquid membrane
- Modified thinset
- Tile and grout
- Corner shower glass enclosure (kit or custom)
- Silicone sealant (100% silicone)
- Mixing valve (single-handle most common)
- Showerhead and arm
- Drain matched to pan
Pre-fab pan saves days of waterproofing work
Pre-fab corner shower pans (Maax, Mirolin, others) come with drain pre-installed and waterproofing built in.
Drop in, plumb to drain, install walls — much faster than building a custom mortar pan.
Pan cost depends on size, brand, and finish level — confirm the model that fits your rough-in before buying.
Step-by-step instructions
Frame two walls of the corner
Two walls form the corner of the shower (typically existing walls in alcove).
If new construction: frame two new walls perpendicular to each other.
Open the corner so the pan and walls fit per pan dimensions.
Verify wall studs at 16 inches OC.
Plumb the rough-in: mixing valve and drain
Mixing valve roughed in to one wall (typically the wall opposite the entry).
Drain plumbed to floor — match drain location to pan's drain location.
Use shower valve template per manufacturer for valve location.
Set the pre-fab pan
Apply mortar bed under pan per manufacturer (or use foam pads if specified).
Drop pan in place; verify drain alignment.
Level pan: should sit level on mortar bed.
Fasten pan flange to studs per manufacturer (typically with screws or nails through flange).
Install cement board on walls
Cement board over framing on the two corner walls.
Bottom edge of cement board overlaps the pan flange (per manufacturer guide).
Cement board screws every 8-12 inches.
Tape and thinset cement board joints.
Apply waterproofing membrane
Schluter Kerdi sheets over cement board, embedded in thinset.
Or RedGard: paint two coats over cement board.
Continuous from pan flange up to 6 inches above shower head.
Reinforce corners with mesh tape (RedGard) or pre-formed Kerdi-Kereck (Kerdi).
Tile shower walls
Modified thinset, tile per manufacturer's recommendation.
Tile up walls to 6+ inches above shower head.
Trim outside edges of tile with bullnose or Schluter Schiene profiles.
Grout walls.
Install glass enclosure
Corner shower kits include: bottom track, side tracks, sliding/swing doors, hardware.
Bottom track screws to pan flange or threshold.
Side tracks anchor to tiled walls (drill through tile carefully with diamond bit).
Insert doors (sliding glide on track; swing pivot in hinges).
Adjust for square and smooth operation.
Install valve trim and shower head
Valve trim: cover plate over rough-in valve.
Shower head: arm screws into wall fitting; head onto arm.
Test water flow: open shut-off valve, let water flow.
Seal with silicone
Around glass-to-tile joints: 100% silicone bead.
Around glass-to-pan/threshold: silicone.
Around shower valve and shower head: silicone or per fixture manufacturer.
Wait 24 hours before using shower.
Final test
Run shower for 5-10 minutes.
Check for: leaks anywhere, water in adjacent rooms, drain operating properly.
If issues: address before regular use.
Common mistakes that cost you
- Pan not level. Pooling water, doesn't drain properly. Level pan during install.
- Cement board over pan flange. Wrong order: cement board ON TOP of pan flange (water rolls off pan into pan). Reversed creates leak path.
- Skipping waterproofing membrane. Cement board alone isn't waterproof. Always add membrane.
- Wrong drain alignment. Drain doesn't connect to plumbing. Verify before setting pan.
- Glass enclosure on out-of-square walls. Doors don't close properly. Check walls are square (3-4-5 method) before tiling.
Frequently asked questions
What size corner shower do I need?
36×36 inch: tightest practical size, fits in small bathrooms.
42×42 or 48×36: more comfortable, requires more bathroom space.
Building Code minimum: 30×30 inch interior shower dimension.
More room = better experience.
Pre-fab vs custom built corner shower?
Pre-fab: cheaper, faster, less skill needed.
Custom: more design flexibility (curbless, larger size, custom finish), much more work.
For DIY, pre-fab pan is typical.
Can I use a corner shower for accessibility?
Standard corner shower has a curb (3-5 inches). Limits accessibility.
Curbless options: custom build with linear drain, more complex.
Accessibility-focused designs: typically larger walk-in showers, not corner.
When to call us instead
Corner showers are a common bathroom renovation. Our team handles framing, plumbing, waterproofing, and finishing as fixed-price work.
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