Laminate flooring is the second-most-popular DIY-installed floor in Canada (vinyl plank is first). Click-together planks, no glue, no nails — just acclimation, subfloor prep, and patient layout. Quality laminate (12mm, AC4-rated for residential) handles 15-20 years of normal use; cheap budget laminate fails in 5-7 years and shows wear quickly.
This guide covers click-lock laminate over a wood subfloor or concrete with a focus on the same prep that makes vinyl plank installation succeed.
Before you start
Three things to settle:
1. Acclimation. Laminate must acclimate in the install room for 48 hours before installation. Stack boxes loosely. Skipping acclimation means the planks expand or contract after install, buckling at seams.
2. Underlayment. Most laminate requires a separate foam underlayment (1.5-3mm) for cushion, sound damping, and slight smoothing of subfloor irregularities. On concrete, also use a 6-mil polyethylene vapour barrier first. Some premium laminates have integrated underlayment.
3. Wear layer rating. Laminate is rated by AC (Abrasion Class): AC1-AC2 for low traffic, AC3 for residential, AC4 for high-traffic residential and light commercial, AC5 for commercial. For most homes, AC3 or AC4 is the right choice. Anything below AC3 wears through in 5-7 years.
What you'll need
Tools
- Tape measure, pencil, chalk line
- Tapping block (laminate-specific)
- Pull bar (for last row against wall)
- Rubber mallet
- Spacers (5/16-inch wedges)
- Sharp utility knife or laminate cutter
- Mitre saw or jigsaw (for cuts)
- Knee pads
- Multi-tool (for door jamb undercutting)
Materials
- Laminate flooring (square footage + 10% waste)
- Foam underlayment
- Vapour barrier (concrete subfloors only)
- Transition strips (T-mouldings, reducers)
- Quarter-round or shoe moulding (covers expansion gap at perimeter)
Same as vinyl plank: prep is everything
Laminate installation principles are nearly identical to vinyl plank. Acclimate. Level the subfloor. Use underlayment. Maintain expansion gap. Stagger seams.
The key difference: laminate is harder than vinyl, less forgiving of subfloor irregularities, and damaged by water at edges. Don't use laminate in bathrooms or basements with humidity issues — vinyl plank is the better choice for those.
Step-by-step instructions
Prep and acclimate
Move boxes into the install room, stack loosely. Wait 48 hours.
While acclimating, finish wet work — paint, drywall mud, etc.
Remove old flooring and inspect subfloor
Pull up existing flooring and quarter-round trim. Check subfloor for squeaks (drive screws into joists at squeak points), high spots (sand), low spots (self-levelling compound).
Subfloor flatness target: 3/16 inch over 10 feet.
Install underlayment
On concrete, lay 6-mil polyethylene vapour barrier first. Roll out underlayment perpendicular to plank direction; tape seams.
If laminate has integrated underlayment, skip separate underlayment but still use vapour barrier on concrete.
Plan layout and starting wall
Pick the longest, most-visible wall. Planks run parallel.
Calculate last-row width — must be at least 2 inches. Adjust starting row width if needed.
Lay first row with spacers
Place 5/16-inch spacers along the starting wall, every 12 inches.
First plank's tongue side faces wall. Click subsequent planks short-end-to-short-end.
Cut last plank to fit, leaving 5/16 inch from end wall.
Stagger seams (6-8 inch minimum)
Each row's end seams should be at least 6-8 inches offset from previous row's seams. Use the cut tail from the previous row as the start of the next.
Aligned end seams across rows look like grid tile and reads amateur.
Connect rows with long-edge click
Lift next row planks at 30 degrees. Insert tongue into previous row's groove. Lower flat to click.
Use tapping block on long edge if joints resist. Light taps with mallet.
Cut around obstacles
Door jambs: undercut with multi-tool, slide plank under for clean finish.
Floor registers: cut to match opening with utility knife or jigsaw.
Pipes/toilets: contour gauge for irregular shapes.
Install final row with pull bar
Last row needs ripping to fit minus 5/16 inch expansion gap.
Use pull bar (hooks over edge of last plank, hammer the other end) to engage the last row's click joint where tapping block won't fit.
Remove spacers; install transitions and trim
Remove all spacers. Install transition strips at doorways.
Reinstall baseboards (nail to wall, never to laminate). Quarter-round covers expansion gap (also nailed to wall, not laminate).
Don't caulk laminate to baseboard — locks expansion movement.
Common mistakes that cost you
- Skipping acclimation. Laminate buckles after install if not acclimated. 48 hours minimum is mandatory.
- Ignoring expansion gap. 1/4 to 3/8 inch perimeter gap required. Without it, expanding planks buckle.
- Aligned seams across rows. Looks like grid tile. Stagger 6-8 inches minimum.
- Caulking baseboard to laminate. Locks expansion movement; floor buckles. Baseboard nails to wall only.
- Using AC2 laminate in main areas. Wears through in 5-7 years. Use AC3 or AC4 for residential.
- Laminate in bathrooms. Water damages laminate at edges. Use vinyl plank or tile in wet areas.
Frequently asked questions
Is laminate or vinyl plank better?
Laminate: harder surface (better for chairs and pets' nails), more wood-like feel, more affordable. But damaged by water at edges, not for bathrooms.
Vinyl plank: fully waterproof, slightly softer feel, works in all rooms including bathrooms. Slightly more expensive at equivalent quality.
For most homes today, vinyl plank is the better choice unless you specifically prefer laminate's harder feel.
What's an AC rating?
AC = Abrasion Class. AC1-AC2: low traffic only. AC3: residential. AC4: heavy residential and light commercial. AC5: commercial.
For most Canadian homes, AC3 minimum, AC4 preferred for kitchens and main living areas.
Can I install over existing laminate?
Generally not recommended. Click-lock laminate is designed to float; stacking layers reduces stability. Remove existing flooring first.
Exception: very thin laminate or vinyl over solid hardwood underneath. Check manufacturer guidelines.
When to call us instead
If subfloor needs significant levelling, your room has many cuts and transitions, or you're flooring multiple connected rooms simultaneously, professional installation is often economical. We do flooring as part of full renovations or as standalone work.
Book a free 60-minute site visit →Related Ottawa services
If you're updating flooring as part of a refresh, our residential renovation team handles flooring, trim, and finishing as fixed-price scopes. Book a free 60-minute consultation.