A jigsaw is the workshop tool for curved cuts and irregular shapes — anything a circular saw or mitre saw can't handle. It excels at scrolling, contouring, and cutting holes through materials. Common uses: cutting holes for sinks, electrical boxes, custom trim profiles, plywood scrolling. The skill points are blade selection and steady forward pressure.
This guide covers standard residential jigsaw use. Variable-speed orbital jigsaws are the modern standard.
Before you start
Three things to settle:
1. Blade selection by material. Wood: 6-10 TPI for fast cuts, 14+ TPI for cleaner finish. Metal: bi-metal blades, 18-24 TPI for thin metal. Plastic: 10-14 TPI fine cut. Tile: tile-cutting blades. Wrong blade tears, binds, or breaks during cut.
2. Variable speed. High speed for wood and plastic. Low speed for metal (prevents overheating) and tile. Speed control on the saw or via trigger pressure.
3. Orbital action. Modern jigsaws have orbital action (blade moves up and forward, not just up-down). Higher orbital settings for fast aggressive cuts in wood; lower for fine cuts and other materials. Most have settings 0-3.
What you'll need
Tools
- Variable-speed orbital jigsaw
- Blade set matched to materials
- Tape measure and pencil
- Clamp for material
- Drill (for starter holes on enclosed cuts)
- Safety glasses, ear protection
Materials
- Painter's tape (over visible-face cut lines for tear-out prevention)
Cut from the back side to avoid tear-out
Jigsaw blades cut on the upstroke — material is pulled into the blade from below. The visible 'tear-out' (rough surface) is on the side facing up.
For visible cuts (like trimming a finished panel), cut from the BACK side so the visible face is on the bottom. The bottom side stays clean.
Step-by-step instructions
Mark the cut line
Trace or measure the cut line clearly on the material. For curves, use a template or compass for consistent shapes.
On the visible face: apply painter's tape over the cut line. Tape supports the wood fibres and reduces tear-out.
Insert the blade
Most modern jigsaws have tool-free blade changes — twist the blade-clamp lever, insert blade, lock.
Verify the blade is fully seated and locked.
Set speed and orbital action
Wood: high speed (variable speed dial 5-6 of 6), orbital 2-3.
Metal: low speed (1-3 of 6), orbital 0.
Plastic: medium speed (3-4), orbital 0-1.
Clamp the material
Material must be securely held. Vibration during cutting causes inaccurate cuts and operator fatigue.
Clamp to a workbench or sawhorses.
For enclosed cuts: drill a starter hole
If the cut starts in the middle of the material (cutting a hole, not from an edge), drill a 1/4 to 1/2 inch starter hole inside the cut area.
Insert the jigsaw blade into the starter hole, then begin the cut.
Start the cut from outside the line
Place the jigsaw shoe on the material with the blade just outside the cut line.
Squeeze the trigger to start the saw. Wait 1 second for full speed.
Slowly push the saw forward. The blade engages and begins cutting.
Follow the cut line at steady speed
Push forward at a steady pace. Don't force — let the blade cut at its own rate.
For curves: gently steer the saw by rotating the handle. Sharp curves need slower forward speed.
If the blade binds: back off pressure, let the blade cool, then continue.
Cut just outside the line; sand to final shape
Cut on the waste side of the line, leaving 1/16 to 1/8 inch of material outside the line.
Sand or file to final shape. This produces cleaner edges than trying to cut exactly on the line.
Hold position until blade stops
After completing the cut, release the trigger. Wait for the blade to stop fully before lifting the saw.
Lifting while the blade is still moving can grab the material and damage it.
Common mistakes that cost you
- Wrong blade for material. Wood blade on metal damages blade; metal blade on wood is too slow. Match blade to material.
- Cutting from the visible face. Tear-out shows on the visible side. Always cut from the back side for visible work.
- Forcing the saw forward. Indicates dull blade or wrong blade. Let the saw cut at its own pace.
- Cutting on the line instead of outside. Leaves no margin for sanding to final shape. Cut outside; sand to line.
- Material not clamped. Vibration produces wavy cuts. Always clamp securely.
Frequently asked questions
Cordless or corded jigsaw?
Cordless (modern lithium-ion) is fully capable for residential work. Battery life is ample for most tasks.
Corded for extended cutting sessions or commercial use. For residential DIY, cordless is the right choice.
Why does my blade keep breaking?
Common causes: forcing the saw forward, wrong blade for material, twisting the saw mid-cut, dull blade.
Use sharp blades, let the saw cut at its own pace, and don't twist the saw.
How do I cut a perfect circle?
Use a circle-cutting jig or compass attachment. Some jigsaws include accessories for this.
Without a jig: drill a small hole at the centre, insert a nail, attach a string from the nail to the saw at the radius distance, pivot the saw around the nail.
When to call us instead
Custom curved millwork and built-ins benefit from professional jigsaw work plus router profiling. We do this as part of custom renovation work.
Book a free 60-minute site visit →Related Ottawa services
If you're producing custom millwork or curved built-ins, our shop work delivers professional results. Book a free 60-minute consultation.