Squeaky floors result from one specific mechanism: wood pieces rubbing against each other or against fasteners that have worked loose. The squeak isn't 'old house settling' — it's a fixable problem with predictable causes. Knowing where to fix it (above the floor or below) and what fastener to use makes the difference between a 30-minute fix and a 2-hour wrong-direction project.

This guide covers the three primary squeak scenarios: subfloor-to-joist (the original construction nails have backed out), squeaky finished floor over subfloor (the floor itself is loose from the subfloor), and joist-on-joist or joist-on-bridging (rare, but happens in older homes).

Before you start

Three things to settle:

1. Above-floor or below-floor access. If you have access to the floor from below (basement ceiling, crawlspace), repairs are cleaner — you can drive screws through the subfloor into the underside of the finished floor without breaking through the visible surface. If access is from above only (apartment, finished basement below), repairs leave visible screw heads on the finished floor unless you use specialty break-off screws.

2. Identify the squeak source. Walk the squeaky area and listen carefully. The squeak comes from one of three places: where the subfloor meets the joist (separation), where the finished floor meets the subfloor (movement between layers), or where two pieces of subfloor meet at a seam (gap). Each requires different repair.

3. Repair tool category. Below-floor access: standard wood screws into joists from below. Above-floor on hardwood: trim screws (small head, fills with putty) or specialty break-off screws like Squeeeeek No More. Above-floor on carpet: fastener tools that work through the carpet pile (Squeeeeek No More tool kit).

What you'll need

Tools

Cordless drill
Drill bit (1/8" pilot)
Phillips driver
Stud finder (to locate joists from below)
Tape measure
Pencil
Squeeeeek No More tool kit (for carpet/hardwood-above-only fixes)

Materials

Wood screws #8 × 2-1/2" or 3" (for subfloor-to-joist repair from below)
Trim screws (for above-hardwood repair, small head fills with wood putty)
Squeeeeek No More break-off screws (for above-floor work where heads can't show)
Wood putty (matching floor colour)
Construction adhesive (PL Premium or similar — for filling gaps before screwing)

Repair from below if you can

Below-floor repairs are cleaner, easier, and more permanent than above-floor repairs. Screws driven up through the subfloor into the joist (or up through the joist into the finished floor) don't show on the visible surface and use full-sized standard hardware.

Only resort to above-floor repairs if no below access exists. The Squeeeeek No More system works above carpet and hardwood but is more expensive (it requires buying the dedicated tool) and the fasteners themselves are smaller than standard wood screws.

Step-by-step instructions

Locate the squeak

Walk the squeaky area slowly. Identify the exact spot — the squeak might be 6 to 36 inches from where you initially thought.

Mark the squeak location with painter's tape on the visible floor. Sometimes a single squeak has multiple sources; mark each one.

Below-access: identify the joist below the squeak

From below (basement ceiling, crawlspace), use a tape measure to find the joist running below the marked squeak area.

Joists are typically 16 inches on centre. Locate the nearest joist. The squeak is usually right where the subfloor sits on or near a joist.

Below-access: drive screws up through the subfloor into the joist

From below, drive #8 × 2-1/2 inch wood screws up through the joist into the subfloor and finished floor above. The screws pull the loose pieces tight together.

Drive 2-3 screws spread across the squeaky area for full coverage. Pre-drill 1/8 inch pilot holes if the wood is dense.

Have a helper walk on the floor above while you drive screws — the squeak should stop with each successful screw.

Below-access: glue and screw for separation gaps

If you can see a gap between the subfloor and joist (visible from below), inject construction adhesive into the gap with a caulk gun.

While the adhesive is wet, drive the screws up to pull the subfloor down to the joist. The adhesive fills the gap permanently.

Don't drive screws so deep they protrude through the finished floor above — measure your floor's combined thickness and use a screw 1/4 inch shorter.

Above-floor on carpet: use Squeeeeek No More

The Squeeeeek No More tool fits over the screw head and lets you drive a specialty screw through the carpet, into the subfloor, into the joist below.

After the screw is fully driven, the tool snaps off the screw head below the floor surface. The carpet pile covers the small remaining hole.

Walk through the squeaky area placing screws every 6-8 inches in a grid until silent.

Above-floor on hardwood: use trim screws

Pre-drill 1/8 inch pilot holes through the hardwood at the squeak location. Use a small countersink bit to recess the hole.

Drive trim screws (small-head wood screws specifically for finish work) into the pilot holes. The small heads sit nearly flush with the floor.

Fill remaining recesses with matching wood putty. After dry, the screws are nearly invisible.

Test by walking

Walk the previously-squeaky area with normal weight. The squeak should be silent or significantly reduced.

If the squeak persists, additional fasteners are needed. Add 2-3 more screws and retest.

Common mistakes that cost you

Above-floor repair when below access exists. Below-floor is cleaner, more permanent, uses standard hardware. Always prefer below-access if possible.
Wrong screw length. Too short doesn't reach. Too long protrudes through finished floor above. Measure the combined floor thickness and pick screws 1/4 inch shorter.
One screw, walking away. Squeaky areas usually have multiple loose connection points. Drive 2-3 screws and re-test. Add more if needed.
Not pre-drilling on hardwood. Hardwood splits when screws drive in cold. Always pre-drill pilot holes.
Skipping construction adhesive on gaps. If you can see a gap between subfloor and joist, glue fills it permanently. Screws alone may pull the gap closed temporarily but not permanently.

Frequently asked questions

Why do floors get squeaky?

Wood components shift slightly over decades of seasonal humidity changes. Original construction nails work loose; gaps develop between subfloor and joists; finished flooring rubs against the subfloor.

It's not 'house settling' — it's identifiable, fixable mechanical wear.

Can I fix squeaks without access from below?

Yes — Squeeeeek No More for carpeted floors, trim screws for hardwood. The fix is less elegant than below-access repairs but works.

For laminate floors, the click-lock joints can be the squeak source rather than fastener failure. Repair often requires lifting the affected planks.

Should I screw or glue?

Both is best for serious squeaks: glue fills the gap, screws pull and hold. For minor squeaks, screws alone usually suffice.

Glue alone (without screws) doesn't solve squeaks because it doesn't pull components together — it only fills gaps.

When to call us instead

If you have widespread floor squeaks throughout multiple rooms, the issue may be subfloor failure (nails systemically backing out) or joist deflection (joists undersized for span). Both require more substantial repair than spot-screwing.

Book a free 60-minute site visit →

Related Ottawa services

If your floor squeaks indicate larger structural issues, our residential renovation team handles structural repair as part of larger scopes. Book a free 60-minute consultation.