Subway tile (3x6 inch ceramic in a brick-pattern offset) is the most-popular kitchen backsplash and bathroom shower tile in Canadian homes. It's been the design standard for over 100 years for good reason: forgiving of installer skill, classic appearance, easy to source and replace. The catch is the same as any tile install — proper substrate prep and consistent grout joints separate professional results from DIY-obvious work.

This guide covers a kitchen backsplash install (most common) on a drywall substrate. Shower tile installation follows similar principles with additional waterproofing — covered in the related shower-tile guide.

Before you start

Three things to settle:

1. Pattern: half-offset, third-offset, or stacked. Half-offset (running bond): each row offset by half a tile from the row above. Classic subway look. Third-offset: each row offset by a third. Modern variation. Stacked (no offset): all tiles align in grid pattern. Contemporary look. Pick a pattern that matches your home's overall style.

2. Grout colour. White subway with white grout: minimal contrast, clean and modern. White subway with grey grout: more visible pattern definition, traditional. White subway with dark grout: high contrast, bold contemporary. Try grout samples against the tile before committing — grout colour dramatically affects the finished look.

3. Surface prep. Drywall: most subway tile backsplashes go directly onto painted drywall (kitchen tile is dry-area only, no waterproofing needed). For showers and wet areas, cement backer board (HardieBacker, Durock) is required.

What you'll need

Tools

Notched trowel (1/4 x 3/16 inch for subway tile)
Wet tile saw or tile cutter (manual for straight cuts; wet saw for curves and notches)
Bucket and drill with mixing paddle
Tile spacers (1/16 to 1/8 inch typically for subway)
Rubber grout float
Grout sponges (multiple)
Tape measure and level
Pencil
Painter's tape

Materials

Subway tile (sq ft + 10% waste)
Modified thinset mortar
Grout (matching colour preference)
Grout sealer
Tile edge profiles (Schluter, for clean tile edges at end of run)
Silicone caulk (for tile-to-counter and corners)

Center the layout horizontally

Find the centre of the wall section to be tiled. Plan the layout so full tiles are centred and cuts at both ends are equal width.

Ending with a 1-inch sliver tile at one end and a full tile at the other looks unbalanced. Equal-width cut tiles at both ends look intentional.

Step-by-step instructions

Prep the surface

Clean the wall with degreaser. Kitchen backsplashes have grease that prevents thinset from bonding.

If the wall has heavy texture (knockdown, orange peel), skim-coat with thinset or joint compound to smooth before tiling. Heavy texture telegraphs through tile.

Plan the layout with a level reference line

Mark the bottom of the tile run with a level horizontal line (typically 1/4 inch above the counter to allow for grout joint).

Find the wall's horizontal centre. Plan the first row from centre outward, with full tiles centred and equal cuts at each end.

Mix the thinset

Mix modified thinset to a peanut-butter consistency. Let it slake (rest) 5-10 minutes after initial mixing, then mix briefly again.

Mix only as much as you can use in 30-45 minutes.

Apply thinset and start the first row

Trowel a small section of thinset onto the wall along the level line. Use the flat side first to press thinset into the wall, then comb in one direction with the notched edge.

Press the first tile firmly into the thinset, twisting slightly to seat. Place spacers below (against the counter) and on each side.

Continue the first row

Add tiles along the first row, with spacers between each tile. Keep tiles level by checking with a torpedo level periodically.

Cut tiles for the row's ends — score and snap with a manual tile cutter, or use a wet saw for cleaner cuts.

Stagger subsequent rows for offset pattern

For half-offset: row 2 starts with half a tile, then full tiles continuing. Row 3 starts with a full tile.

Alternate this pattern through all rows. Use spacers above and below each tile to maintain consistent grout joints.

Verify every few rows with a level to confirm no cumulative drift.

Cut around obstacles

Outlets and switches: tile around the box, with cuts close to the box edges. The cover plate will hide minor irregularities.

Window sills, shelves, edges: use tile edge profiles (Schluter Schiene, Jolly) for clean transitions. These are L-shaped metal trim pieces installed at the same time as tile.

Wait 24 hours, then grout

Cured thinset is required before grouting. Wait at least 24 hours.

Mix grout per package. Use unsanded grout for joints under 1/8 inch (typical subway).

Apply with rubber float at 45 degrees, pressing into joints in multiple directions.

Wipe excess grout

After 15-20 minutes (until grout firms up), wipe excess grout from tile faces with a clean damp sponge in circular motions.

Multiple passes with clean sponge — first pass removes bulk, second cleans haze.

Don't over-wash; you'll pull grout out of joints.

Caulk transitions and seal grout

Where tile meets the counter or another surface: silicone caulk (not grout). Silicone handles the slight movement at these joints; grout cracks.

After grout cures (24 hours): apply grout sealer with a small applicator to all grout joints. Sealer prevents stains and water absorption.

Common mistakes that cost you

Insufficient surface prep. Grease, dust, or texture prevents thinset bond. Clean and smooth before tiling.
Inconsistent grout joints. Spacers between every tile are required. Eyeballing joint width produces visible variation.
Wrong grout type for joint width. Sanded grout for joints over 1/8 inch; unsanded for narrower. Wrong type causes cracking or scratching.
Skipping the level check. Cumulative drift over multiple rows means the top row tilts visibly. Check level every 3-4 rows.
Skipping silicone at transitions. Tile-to-counter joints need silicone, not grout. Grout cracks at moving joints.
Not sealing grout. Unsealed grout absorbs stains and moisture. Always seal after curing.

Frequently asked questions

Half-offset or stacked pattern?

Half-offset (brick pattern) is the classic subway look — traditional, forgiving of slight tile size variations.

Stacked (grid pattern) is more contemporary but requires precise tile sizes and very straight install — any drift is immediately visible.

What grout joint width should I use?

Subway tile typically uses 1/16 to 1/8 inch joints. Tighter (1/16) looks more contemporary; wider (1/8) more traditional.

Match the spacers used during install. Most pre-made spacers come in standard sizes.

Do I need cement backer board?

Kitchen backsplash (dry area): no — drywall is fine.

Bathroom shower walls: yes — water exposure requires cement backer board (HardieBacker, Durock) on all wet walls.

How do I cut tile around outlets?

Score and snap straight cuts using a manual tile cutter. Use a wet saw for L-cuts (cutting around boxes). Test fit before applying thinset.

Tile cuts can sit close to the outlet box (within 1/8 inch). The outlet cover plate hides minor irregularities.

When to call us instead

If you're tiling a shower or wet area, surface prep includes waterproofing membrane (Schluter Kerdi, RedGard) over cement backer board. Different process and tools — see the shower tile guide. We do tile work as part of bathroom and kitchen renovations.

Book a free 60-minute site visit →

Related Ottawa services

Tile work is core to bathroom and kitchen renovations. Our bathroom and kitchen renovation teams handle tile, substrate, and finishing as fixed-price scopes. Book a free 60-minute consultation.