Under-cabinet lighting is the highest-impact kitchen upgrade per dollar spent. It eliminates the shadow that wall cabinets cast on countertop work surfaces and reads as 'designer kitchen' visually. Two installation paths: plug-in LED strips with a remote (renter-friendly, no permit, 30-minute install) or hardwired LED bars routed through cabinet bottoms with a dedicated switch (cleaner appearance, requires basic electrical work).

This guide covers both approaches. For hardwired installations involving running new wiring or installing a new switch, an ESA permit may be required in Ontario.

Before you start

Three things to settle:

1. Plug-in vs hardwired. Plug-in: inexpensive (Govee, Philips Hue strips), no permits, no electrical work. Cord runs visibly to a wall outlet. Hardwired: cleaner appearance with no visible cord, controlled by wall switch, but requires running wiring and possibly an ESA permit.

2. LED type. LED tape (adhesive-backed strip): cheapest, most flexible, easy to cut to length. Linear LED bars (rigid aluminum extrusion): more polished look, longer-lasting, costlier. Puck lights (round individual fixtures): older style, less even illumination.

3. Colour temperature. Warm white (2700-3000K): traditional kitchen feel, matches incandescent. Cool white (3500-4000K): brighter task lighting, modern feel. Daylight (5000-6000K): brightest, but harsh — typically too cool for kitchens. Pick based on existing kitchen lighting and personal preference. Many modern strips offer adjustable colour temperature.

What you'll need

Tools

Tape measure
Pencil and painter's tape
Drill (for hardwired install: drilling holes through cabinet bottoms for wires)
Wire strippers (for hardwired)
Phillips screwdriver
Voltage tester (for hardwired)
Cleaning rag and isopropyl alcohol (for prepping cabinet bottom surfaces)

Materials

LED strip lights or LED bars (sized to total cabinet length)
Power supply / driver (typically included with hardwired kits)
Connecting wires (for chained strips)
Wire nuts (for hardwired connections)
Mounting clips or adhesive backing
Plug-in kit: power cord, IR remote OR Hub for smart-home integration

Plug-in is the smart starter project

If you're new to electrical work, start with plug-in LED strips. The small investment teaches you the layout decisions (where the strip goes, where the cord runs, how it's cleanest) without any permit complexity. Once installed and working, you know the system works and can decide whether to upgrade to hardwired later.

Hardwired requires running new wiring, drilling through cabinet backs, and possibly a new switch — much more involved. Don't do hardwired as a first electrical project.

Step-by-step instructions

Plan the LED strip layout

Measure each cabinet run's length. The total length is what you need to buy.

Plan corners: most LED strips can be cut at marked intervals (every 2 inches typically) and rejoined at corners with corner connectors.

Identify where the power cord will plug in (for plug-in) or where the wiring will tap into existing kitchen circuit (for hardwired).

Clean the cabinet bottom surfaces

Wipe each cabinet bottom with isopropyl alcohol to remove kitchen grease and dust. Adhesive-backed LED strips need clean dry surfaces for permanent bond.

Let dry fully (15-20 minutes) before applying adhesive.

Cut LED strips to length

Most LED strips have visible cut lines (small scissor icons) every 2 inches. Cut only at these marked points; cutting elsewhere damages adjacent LEDs.

Cut each strip to the cabinet length minus 1-2 inches at each end (prevents the strip from being visible when standing back from the cabinets).

Adhere strips to cabinet bottoms

Peel the adhesive backing 6 inches at a time. Press the strip firmly into position, working from one end of the cabinet to the other.

Press for 30 seconds along the entire length to ensure adhesion. The first 24 hours of cure determine long-term adhesion — handle gently in this period.

Connect strips between cabinets

At cabinet seams (where one cabinet ends and the next begins), connect strips using corner connectors or short jumper wires (typically included in kits).

The connectors plug into the strip's contacts. Most are tool-free push-fit.

For plug-in: connect to power and remote

Connect the strip's lead wire to the power supply (typically a small black AC adapter included in the kit).

Plug the power supply into a wall outlet — preferably an outlet hidden behind a refrigerator or in a corner where the cord isn't visible.

Pair with the IR remote or smart-home app per the kit's instructions.

For hardwired: connect to the kitchen circuit

Turn off the kitchen circuit at the breaker. Verify with a voltage tester.

Tap into the existing circuit at a junction box (typically the box behind a wall switch or a junction near the kitchen). Connect the LED system's wiring to the circuit per the kit's wiring diagram.

If installing a new switch for the under-cabinet lights, run wire from the new switch box to the LED system.

Test all strips light up

Power up the system. All strips should light immediately.

If one section is dark, the connector at that section is loose — re-seat. If the entire system is dark, the power supply or the first connector has an issue.

Adjust colour and brightness

Use the remote or app to adjust colour temperature and brightness. Try several settings to find what looks best in your kitchen.

Most users land on warm-to-neutral white (3000-3500K) at 70-80% brightness for everyday use.

Common mistakes that cost you

Strips not cleaned/prepped. Adhesive doesn't bond to greasy surfaces. Always clean with alcohol first.
Cutting strips at wrong points. Cuts only at marked scissor icons. Random cuts damage adjacent LEDs.
Wrong colour temperature. 5000K daylight is harsh in kitchens. Stick with 2700-3500K warm-to-neutral white.
Visible cord. Plan the cord path before installing. Hide behind appliances, in corners, or run along cabinet edges where invisible.
Hardwired without permit. Adding new wiring or switches requires ESA permit in Ontario. Don't skip — fines and insurance issues.

Frequently asked questions

Plug-in or hardwired?

Plug-in: inexpensive, 30-minute install, no permits, but cord visible. Good for renters or first-time installers.

Hardwired: cleaner appearance with no visible cord, controlled by wall switch, but adds materials and pro install labour. Better for permanent installs or kitchens being renovated.

How long do LED strips last?

Quality LED strips (Philips, Govee, Lutron) last 25,000-50,000 hours — that's 8-15 years of typical kitchen use. Cheap unbranded strips fail in 1-3 years.

Look for LM-80 testing or 25,000+ hour ratings on the spec sheet. The premium for quality is small and pays back in lifespan.

Will under-cabinet lights work as the only kitchen lighting?

No — they're task lighting, not general illumination. Kitchens need overhead lighting plus task lighting for full functionality. Under-cabinet supplements overhead, doesn't replace it.

When to call us instead

If you're doing a kitchen renovation, hardwired under-cabinet lighting integrated into the design is the right approach. We coordinate this as part of full kitchen scopes.

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If you're upgrading kitchen lighting comprehensively, our kitchen renovation team handles lighting design and electrical as fixed-price work. Book a free 60-minute consultation.