Replacing cabinet pulls (handles) is one of the highest-impact low-cost kitchen upgrades you can make. The same cabinet boxes look completely different with new pulls — but only if the new pulls fit the existing holes. This is the single most-overlooked step: pulls are sized by their hole-spacing (centre-to-centre distance between mounting screws), and new pulls must match the existing hole spacing or the install requires fill-and-redrill.

This guide covers a straight pull replacement (matching hole spacing) and a redrill scenario (new spacing required). Both finish in 30 to 60 minutes for a typical kitchen.

Before you start

Three things to settle:

1. Measure existing hole spacing first. Before buying anything, measure centre-to-centre distance between your existing pull mounting holes. Common spacings: 3 inches (76mm), 96mm (3.78 inch), 5 inches (128mm), 5.04 inches (128mm). Buy pulls that match your existing spec exactly. A 1/8 inch difference looks wrong.

2. Match-replace or redrill?. Match-replace: easiest, fastest, no patching. Buy pulls at your existing hole spacing. Redrill: drill new holes for new spacing, fill old holes with wood filler, sand, paint or stain to match. Redrill takes 1-2 hours plus drying time and looks ok if done well, but the original holes show as filled spots if cabinets are stained.

3. Stained vs painted vs laminate cabinets. Stained/lacquered cabinets show filled holes more visibly than painted ones. For stained cabinets, prefer match-replace. Painted cabinets accept fill-and-paint better. Laminate cabinets show drilled holes as chip marks unless tape is used during drilling.

What you'll need

Tools

Cordless drill with 3/16" bit (for new holes)
Tape measure (precise mm measurement)
Pencil and painter's tape
Phillips screwdriver
Putty knife (for wood filler)
Sanding block (220-grit)
Touch-up paint or stain (matching cabinet colour)

Materials

New cabinet pulls (matching existing hole spacing OR new spacing)
Wood filler (for redrill scenarios; match cabinet colour for stained, white for paintable)
Mounting screws (typically included with new pulls; longer screws for thicker doors)
Painter's tape

European measurements: 96mm vs 3.78 inches

Many cabinet pulls are sized in millimetres because European cabinet hardware standards dominate the global market. 96mm is a common spacing equivalent to 3.78 inches — close to but not identical to a 3-inch pull.

Confirm the spec: a 96mm pull won't fit 3-inch holes (off by 0.78 inch — visibly wrong). Buy by mm if your existing pulls are mm-spec; by inches if existing are inch-spec.

Step-by-step instructions

Measure existing hole spacing

Use a tape measure or ruler to measure centre-to-centre between the two mounting holes on your existing pull. This is your hole-spacing spec.

Common spacings: 3 inches (76.2mm), 96mm (3.78"), 5 inches (127mm), 128mm (5.04"), 6.3 inches (160mm), 192mm (7.56").

Buy matching pulls or commit to redrill

Match-replace: buy pulls with the same spacing spec. Skip the redrill steps below.

Redrill: pick the new pulls in any spec you like. Plan to fill old holes and drill new ones. Test the pulls' physical fit before committing — some bulky pulls don't clear narrow doors.

Remove existing pulls

From inside the cabinet door, unscrew the pull's mounting screws with a Phillips screwdriver. The pull comes off the front; the screws come out from the inside.

Save the old pulls — they may have value as second-hand hardware, and matching them later is hard if you change your mind.

Match-replace: install new pulls in existing holes

Insert the new pull's screws from the inside of the door, threading through the existing holes.

Hand-thread the pull onto the screws from the front. Hand-tighten until snug.

If the new screws are a different length than the old, switch to length that matches your door thickness — too short and the pull won't seat; too long and the screws bottom out before the pull tightens.

Redrill scenario: fill old holes

Apply wood filler to each old hole, both from the front face and (if the hole goes all the way through) from the back. Press filler firmly into the hole; smooth flush with the surface.

Let the filler dry per the manufacturer's instructions (typically 30 minutes to 4 hours).

Sand smooth with 220-grit sandpaper. The filler should be flush with the cabinet surface, no bumps.

Drill new holes

Mark the new hole positions according to your placement standard. Make a template (cardboard or commercial cabinet hardware template) so each pull is at the same offset from the door corner.

Apply painter's tape over the drill points to prevent the bit from walking and to support laminate edges if applicable.

Pre-drill 3/16-inch holes (matching the screw size) through the door. Use scrap plywood behind the door to prevent splintering on the back.

Touch up the filled spots

For painted cabinets: apply matching cabinet paint over the filled areas. Two coats may be needed for full coverage.

For stained cabinets: stain over the filled areas with matching wood stain, then apply matching topcoat. Filled stain repairs are visible at certain angles but acceptable on most installs.

Install new pulls

Insert screws from the inside of the door, threading through the new holes. Hand-thread the pulls onto the screws.

Verify the pulls are level and consistently positioned. Walk past the kitchen and view at angles; outliers are visible at distance.

Final verification

Open and close every cabinet door. The pulls should be solid — no rotation, no looseness.

If a pull is loose, the screws aren't tight enough; if the screws bottom out without snugging the pull, switch to longer screws.

Common mistakes that cost you

Mismatched hole spacing. Even 1/8 inch off looks wrong. Measure first; buy pulls matching the spec.
Skipping the painter's tape on laminate. Drilling laminate without tape chips the surface. Always tape both sides of the hole on laminate cabinets.
Forgetting backer scrap on through-drilling. The back of the door splinters where the bit exits. Clamp scrap plywood behind to prevent.
Inconsistent pull placement on redrill. Eyeballed measurements vary by 1/8 inch easily. Use a template for repeatable placement.
Wrong screw length for door thickness. Too short and the pull won't seat. Too long and the screw won't tighten. Match the screw to the door.

Frequently asked questions

How do I measure existing hole spacing?

Use a tape measure or ruler to measure centre-to-centre between the two mounting holes on your existing pull. Most pulls have visible centre marks; if not, measure from the edge of one hole to the same edge of the other.

Note both inches and millimetres to confirm against pull packaging.

Can I install pulls without removing cabinet doors?

Yes — pull installation works with doors hanging in place. Just open each door to access the screws from inside. No need to remove doors.

What's the right pull size for my cabinets?

Pull size depends on cabinet door size: 3-inch pulls suit smaller doors and drawers; 96mm or 5-inch pulls work for medium drawers; 6+ inch pulls fit larger drawers and oversized doors.

Match scale to door size — a tiny pull on a large drawer looks awkward; an oversized pull on a small door overwhelms it.

When to call us instead

If you're refacing or repainting cabinets along with hardware update, this becomes a kitchen-refacing job. We handle cabinet refacing, painting, and hardware updates as fixed-price work.

Book a free 60-minute site visit →

Related Ottawa services

If you're refreshing the kitchen comprehensively, our kitchen renovation team handles refacing, painting, and full updates. Book a free 60-minute consultation.